Urban chill
After a frosty morning urban sketching in Hove, what you need is a comfy chair and a hot coffee.
Then you can feel your fingers and toes and do it all over again.

After a frosty morning urban sketching in Hove, what you need is a comfy chair and a hot coffee.
Then you can feel your fingers and toes and do it all over again.

I’ve only ever seen Paris in the depths of winter before, so this autumn adventure with my mum was the trip of a lifetime.
I wasn’t planning to sketch, but after the 300 steep steps up to the top of the Sacré-Coeur, mum’s coeur was ready for a decent sit down. Luckily, I am always prepared for a bit of plein air painting!
It was surprisingly peaceful in the Dome, away from the swarming crowds below. I was able to peer over the edge, working quickly whilst ‘le petit train de Montmartre’ waited below.
My three top tips for Paris are:
New York New York, I imagined it to be just like it’s pictured in Tony Sarg’s ‘Up and down New York’ but there were far fewer hats and there was no hurricane at the Flatiron Building.
Be warned that there is a dark underworld of gull-gangs hanging out in St Ives.
They swig bootleg cider and place bets on whether tourist scalp has more protein than Cornish pasty. Then feed endlessly off both between 12 and 2pm every day.
My advice is NEVER sketch near someone eating a Cornish pasty in St Ives. Not unless you have a bucket and several heavy duty wet-wipes to clear up the mess. I know from experience.
The intense lightning storms over the UK this week started here in the South West.
I would have loved to sketch them, but it’s hard to mix up a good ivory black when you are cowering behind the sofa!
After all that drama, you might think those vivid colours were a result of adrenaline rush, but the light here is truly something else. Even a grim misty morning blazes with an eerie quality.

“The Island” from Barnoon cemetery
It’s not surprising that this landscape inspired an art movement.
I took a trip to Barnoon cemetery to find fisherman and self taught painter Alfred Wallis.
His grave is beautifully tiled by Bernard Leach. I was moved by this tribute to a man whose honest paintings, with their wacky perspective, inspired the early St Ives artists.
A gentle start in Chur…
The Glacier Express in Switzerland is one of the slowest express trains in the world, but still makes for high speed sketching.
On to Gornergrat.
The final train journey home, via Geneva. Even the Brighton train was on time!

Had Napoleon III took a day trip to Shoreham, he would have come face to face with the large gun which sat on this emplacement
Shoreham Fort was built in 1857 to defend against French invasion. Luckily, Napoleon III was too busy renovating Paris to bother attacking the good people of Shoreham. As it turned out, the real threat came 100 years later when the Barrack block was demolished.
The fort is now being lovingly restored by volunteers, so this little nugget of Victorian innovation stays with us.
Brighton is awash with bloom and after this Easter I’m 28% cocoa. That’s more than your average mini egg.
I finally got to see the Turner by the sea exhibition at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich this weekend. It’s great to see such an amazing body of work in one place. I recommend getting the audio tour for some added context.
As well as more familiar paintings, you get to see some of Turner’s sketchbooks and unfinished works.
I was so inspired, I had to immediately walk to the Royal Observatory and do a double page spread of Greenwich Park!
With that out of my system there was time for a quick stop at the Tate modern to sketch the silver birch trees before it got too dark.
Taking inspiration from David Cameron, I decided to jump on the bandwagon today and take in a bit of flood tourism.
I’m not shameless enough to gawp at those unfortunate enough to have their homes ruined by the ceaseless deluge we’ve experienced this winter. Instead I opted for the softer option of a visit to Brighton and Hove seafront.
Despite a big clean up after the raging high tides in January, you will still find yourself wading through pebbles and bits of pier. Forget wellies, I recommend a hard hat and some totectors!
The West pier suffered further collapse a couple of weeks ago, although you wouldn’t know it until you face it head on.
It was like watching 5 year olds dance at a school play, as those normally tightly synchronised rows of beach huts shuffled shambolically in the wind, swimming amongst pebbles and bits of old net.
There’s no room for exactness when you are Winter sketching, particularly when you can’t actually feel your hands anymore!
If you’ve passed through a typical campsite lately, you’ll probably think you’ve seen it all when it comes to tents. The general rule seems to be that if you can’t fit a 3 seater sofa and a fitted kitchen in it, don’t bother. So I was surprised to find my expectations topped when I saw that the Brighton Music Hall ‘tremendous tipi’ on the seafront.
It promises to provide an experience that would tempt even the most luke warm of campers. If only there was always a Sunday roast, winter Pimms, Father Christmas & live music on tap every time you pitched a tent, then some of us might be a bit more willing to rough it.